A coalition of farmers have raised concerns about the EU’s proposed Green Claims Directive, specifically criticising the inclusion of the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology.
In an open letter to the EU Council, signed by over 600 farmers, the group argued that the PEF unfairly disadvantages natural fibres in favour of synthetic materials.
The letter, signed by notable figures, including Italian activist and founder of the Slow Food Movement, Carlo Petrini, expressed alarm over the PEF methodology.
In the letter, the farmers asserted that the directive inaccurately portrays natural fibres as environmentally harmful, overlooking the benefits of responsible farming practices.
They claimed that this misrepresentation could lead to policies that favour synthetic fibres, predominantly used in fast fashion, exacerbating the challenges faced by farmers due to economic pressures.
Green Claims Directive
The technical secretariat is the guiding body that is developing the PEF Category Rules (PEFCR) for the apparel and footwear industry.
It is made up of representatives of various stakeholders including brands from the fibre and textile sectors, non government organisations, scientific experts, and governments.
But according to the coalition of the farmers none of the 26 voting members are farmers.
Their letter stated: “Decisions are voted on and agreed by a two-thirds majority – there are 14 total voting members, eight of which have a synthetic business model to protect.”
The open letter urged the EU Council to reconsider the use of the current PEF methodology.
The individuals discussed the need for policies that accurately reflect the environmental impact of natural fibre production and protect the agricultural community.
“We therefore urge you to reconsider the use of the current PEF and PEFCR methodology, and ensure that this policy truly reflects impact of natural fibre production and does not risk damaging the livelihoods of farmers,” the letter continued.